Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary

Book Preface

This book is now in its fourth edition, and the skin care and cosmetic industry has undergone significant changes since the first volume was published in 1993. More is known about how the skin works, how cosmetic ingredients interact with each other, and how they work with the skin’s own chemical composition. This increase in understanding, however, has not been matched with greater simplicity. In fact, the cosmetic industry is more complicated and confusing than ever, and cosmetic ingredients remain a mystery to most consumers and professionals. Information tools, particularly those available on the Internet, can provide what appear to be ready answers to such questions as What is this ingredient?; Where does it come from?; What does it do?; Who uses it in their products? These tools, however, do not provide insight into other questions, for instance Does this product really do what it claims?; Is it worth the price being asked? Nor do they often clarify chemical terms, government regulations, and cosmeticindustry labeling practices. This book was originally written as a tool to help cosmetic users navigate these questions and concerns, and to develop their own well-reasoned conclusions regarding skin care ingredients and cosmetic products.

This edition remains true to the original intent. However, it is similar to and different from its predecessors. As in previous editions, it begins with a basic explanation of skin anatomy and physiology as this is critical for understanding product performance. This section is intended to provide general information on the skin and its functions, and it is written to support the spirit of the book as a dictionary and not a reference text on skin care. Like past editions it includes information on skin types, conditions and problems, as well a chapter (Chapter 4) defining common terms used in skin care formulation. Part II, the alphabetical listing of ingredients, has also been updated. The number of new ingredients available, especially botanicals, is vast, and we have incorporated those that appear to be very frequently used or for which an appropriate amount of reliable data are available.

At the same time, this edition has undergone significant revisions.For example, there are now sections on adverse reactions, product testing, and claim substantiation; and we have done our best to ensure that ingredients are listed by their International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) name, with cross-references to other names when appropriate. It is also the first edition to be written without Natalia Michalun—without her energy and her vast knowledge and commitment to professional skin care. I am extremely grateful to Joseph C. DiNardo for joining me in this project and inspiring new directions while remaining true to its original purpose. His immense experience, patience, humor, and style have combined to make a fresh and strong volume.

Many U.S. and European sources of information were used for this edition, and we are grateful to all of them. Our reviewers have been invaluable and we wish to express our most sincere appreciation for their efforts. Finally our appreciation goes to Maria Lynch, Sarah Prediletto, and Philip Mandl of Cengage Learning for their continued support of this dictionary.

We hope that in this volume you find answers to the many skin care cosmetic ingredient questions that estheticians and cosmetic consumers share.